Pheasant belongs at Buck’s T-4—which began life in the 1940s as a hunting lodge—the way sashimi belongs in Japan. But longtime Buck’s culinary chieftain Chuck Schommer and executive chef Bibbins are hardly stuck in the past. The pheasant comes braised in ancho chile and built into a quesadilla. Hearty bison meatloaf finds itself inside a sourdough grilled cheese or plated with garlic mashers and a classic Bordelaise. Wild-boar bacon and red-deer venison meet in ravioli matched with fennel, arugula, and Reggiano.