So much has been said and written in recent years about La Grave, that eventually every wistful thrill-seeker looks for it on the map of the southern French Alps. Finding it takes some doing: La Grave earns the cartographer's tiniest dot.
Every morning the light touches Horsefly Peak first. Its snowy summit blushes pink then white, as dawn scrolls down the mountainside. Fourteen miles from my living room window, Horsefly dominates the western horizon like a softer, slightly asymmetrical Fu