For North Lake Tahoe skiers, Alpine Meadows has always been the poor man’s Squaw Valley: similarly aggressive terrain (though a lot less of it) without the high prices and posh amenities. So when Squaw, the heavyweight just over the ridge, slashed its season pass prices by nearly $1,000 last season, Alpine was forced to respond. The great North Shore pass war was on. It remains to be seen who will emerge victorious when the snow settles, but for now, skiers are the winners. An unrestricted season pass to Alpine and sister resort Homewood is just $649, while a Sunday-to-Friday pass is $299. That’s serious Colorado-style competition—with lake views to boot.

Even before the discounts, Alpine provided ample bang for your buck. Its open-boundary policy and 2,400 acres of inbounds terrain means that if you can see it, you’re welcome to ski it. Or at least try. Skiers get an eyeful of what’s in store while riding the Summit Six Express from the base. Intermediates carve deliberate turns down wide-open Alpine Bowl while experts head to Wolverine or, for those willing to hike, the cornice drops and untracked lines in Beaver, Estelle and Bernie’s bowls. Off to skier’s right, imposing Ward Peak offers ripping frontside descents through steep chutes and tree stands.

Alpine’s unofficial motto is “follow the sun.” Multiple east- and west-facing aspects make it possible to ski sun-ripened slopes all day. No place is better for soaking up the rays than Alpine’s backside, which feels like its own ski area and shows off the resort’s laid-back vibe. Don’t be surprised to see employees and their dogs on the Sherwood lift as they head to the patrol shack to hang out. Cruise intermediate Sherwood Run through the trees
and emerge into the bright light of Sherwood Face before grabbing a grilled sausage and cold beer at the Ice Bar, a casual
hangout at the bottom of Sherwood where locals lounge and ambush their buddies with snowballs.

Alas, economic storm clouds have dimmed Alpine’s naturally sunny disposition. Locals grumble about the weekday closure of the Lakeview Chair to cut costs. Others worry that the pass war will test the area’s long-term viability. For now, Alpine devotees are pinning their hopes on local kid Errol Kerr, the sole member of the Jamaican Ski Team, who is training here for February’s Winter Olympics. Kerr wants to medal in skiercross. Sure, he’s an underdog—but so is his favorite ski area.

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◗ Must Do Read the new book A Wall of White, an investigation into the 1982 avalanche at Alpine Meadows that killed seven people. Jennifer Woodlief details the drama as employees and volunteers searched for survivors and redemption.

◗ MUST SKI The steep in-bounds lines off Keyhole. Make the short hike to the summit of Ward Peak and drop in. Ward shades these expert slopes, which helps maintain the snow. Plus, you might be the only one in here.

◗ APRÈS The Compactor Bar, in the base lodge, rocks after the lifts close. Join the Alpine Club for $10 and receive discounts and entry to members-only parties.

◗ DINING Patrollers and locals order the buffalo hangar steak and pints of Mirror Pond at the River Ranch Lodge. Large windows overlook the Truckee River, providing a serene backdrop worthy of a watercolorist.

◗ LODGING Located 15 minutes away on the lake’s charming and historic West Shore, Tahoma Meadows offers dog-friendly cottages with nearby access to Sugar Pine Point State Park. Take time to meet owners Dick and Ulli, who make killer breakfasts and share stories during the nightly cocktail and cheese hour;  tahomameadows.com.

◗ INFO skialpine.com