Reviewed by Eric Hansen
Nov 06, 2008
Mary Jane—named for a mining-era lady of the night—and its sister area, Winter Park, offer plenty of prospects for good skiing, including bumps and powder-filled bowls. Forming one of the closest major resorts to Denver, the two areas spread across five mountains and 3,078 acres. Add 3,060 feet of vertical, 30 feet of snowfall, and a direct train from Denver and it’s no wonder why the Front Range packs the place on Saturdays.
Snowmass is one of the four resorts of the Aspen Snowmass group and one of the largest ski resorts in North America. Snowmass has a vertical drop of 4,406 feet, most vertical in the USA.
Blessed with geographic isolation to keep day-trippers at home, CB is the unpretentious, steep, rocky resort it’s always been with only one change:upgraded on-slope accommodation.
“Telluride is a skier’s mountain and a skier’s town,” then town councilman Rasta Stevie said in the 1987 film The Blizzard of Aahhh’s. And not much has changed. No stoplights or commercial chains, and a loose, lawless vibe. Locals still lap lift nine’s Kant-Mak-M and the glades off chair six, get drunk off cheap Budweiser at the Last Dollar Saloon, and score big at the Free Box. But recent upgrades allow skiers to ride a lift to Gold Hill’s steep chutes and hike to Palmyra Peak’s now-inbounds big-mountain terrain, powder-stuffed coulies, and 2,000-vertical-foot descents. So, Stevie, though you and some of your brethren are gone, Telluride remains funky and dirtbags continue to live in Inity with Jah-iration. Seen?
Powder Day: Ski laps on 35-degree Silver Glade and Zulu Queen under Chair 6 until 10 o’clock, when patrol opens the gate atop Chair 5. Then bust it over to Gold Hill for a round of treeless faces that roll over into pinched 35-degree funnels.
Three Days Later: Boot-pack 10 minutes from Chair 12 to the 350-foot, 40-degree Prospect Extremes—Genevieve, La Rosa, and Crystal. It’s the steepest rock garden on the mountain and a magnet for snow.
Park and pipe: Telluride’s 10 tables, 20 rails, and one superpipe aren’t what the majority of people come here for. That’s good news if you’re a jibber. Choose your poison: Ute Park for beginners, Butterfly for intermediates, and Air Garden for experts.
Weather: Telluride sits in a box canyon that traps storms for days—especially in March, when three feet can fall in 36 hours. When it’s not snowing, it’s sunny 300 days a year.
Après: Head to the sunny front porch of The West End Tavern, one block from the base of Lift 7, for stinging margaritas ($5) and cute waitresses.
Up all night: Channel Jerry with the jam bands at the Fly Me to the Moon Saloon downtown. Later, watch for low-flying darts at the late-night drunkhole called The Last Dollar Saloon, a.k.a. The Buck.
Digs: The Hotel Telluride offers early-season doubles for $99 per night, two nights minimum. Book a room and get a 75-minute massage for another $99 (thehoteltelluride.com).