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Underground: St. Moritz, Switzerland

Vibe
posted: 12/12/2001

SCENE:
Polo parties, high-roller casinos, and 4 a.m. last calls: Hedonism is religion here (try to finagle your way onto a jet-setter's tab).

Apres
You know you've pounded too much Calanda Meister Brà¤u at the Palace Hotel's Kings Club when the resort's baroque, top-heavy tower makes architectural sense.

Fuel
Get your breakfast pastries at Hanselmann's, a local's favorite for more than a century. For lunch, head to midmountain Corviglia, where you can choose from the highest McDonald's in Europe or, if you have any taste buds at all, La Marmite. Come evening, ride the funicular up to a promontory called Muottas Muragl, for carpaccio, raclette, and mountaintop views.

Up All Night
The Devil's Place bar claims to serve more brands of malt whisky than anywhere on the planet. Move the muddy water through your bloodstream at the Vivai Disco or Stübli, where table dancing is a tradition and shoulder-to-shoulder crowds make for soft landings.

Digs
The two-star Hotel Bellaval has low-season packages starting at about $60 per night (41-(0)81-833-3245). For luxe lodgings, check into the newly renovated Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains (41-(0)81-838-3838; kempinski.com), home to a massive spa, plush casino, and champagne breakfast.

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