Ultimate 72-hour Escapes: Jackson Hole

Warning: you may need an additional week off to recover from an intense, steeps-filled weekend in Jackson Hole, Wyo.

by Chris Solomon

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How to get there This winter, there are nonstop flights to the Jackson airport from seven cities. Alternatively, fly to Idaho Falls, a two-hour drive. A car isn't a must, but it's convenient. Go with one of the companies at the airport-Alamo, Avis, Hertz or Thrifty-as opposed to the outfits you'll have to hit town to get to. Otherwise, a one-way shuttle to Teton Village is $46 with Buckboard Transportation (877-791-0211; buckboardtrans.com). Local bus service runs frequently between Jackson and Teton Village ($3; startbus.com).

Where to stay To catch first tram, stick close to Teton Village. (The town of Jackson is 15 minutes away-double that during a snowstorm.) The Snake River Lodge and Spa is a quick walk to the lifts. Choose between 88 guest rooms and 46 condos. There's also an enormous spa and an excellent gourmet restaurant, GameFish ($349-$1,650; 800-445-4655; snakeriverlodge.com). The new luxury Moose Creek Townhomes are served by their own lift, the Moose Creek chair. Each has a patio or deck, a full kitchen and washer/dryer-a perk for skiers traveling bare-bones ($690-$1,010; 800-443-8613; jhrl.com).

How to ski the mountain

Day One With its 4,139 vertical feet and 2,500 acres of skiing, Jackson Hole turns the overambitious weekend warrior into a bowl of Jell-O. Ease into your stay with a few warm-up cruisers on Moran or Werner, reachable from the Après Vous lift. When the morning lines die, move over to the higher Thunder and Sublette chairs, grabbing a quick lunch at Thunder Café at the base of the two lifts. Off Sublette, follow the Laramie Traverse past cliff bands and cross beneath them to lesser-known Bernie's Bowl, which has a steep pitch but few rocks and trees. After lunch, hop the tram to 10,450-foot Rendezvous Peak for a top-to-bottom plunge, hitting the Hobacks if there's fresh snow.

Day Two Cajole your group of friends to hire a guide through the Mountain Sports School ($495 for one person, $20 each additional person up to five; 307-739-2663). This ensures two advantages: insider info on where to ski and the ability to cut lines all day. Feel adventurous? Ask about the out-of-bounds terrain in Rock Springs Canyon. You'll sleep well that evening.

Day Three You're not done yet: Now that you've got your legs beneath you, head to The Crags-200 acres and 1,000 vertical feet of new skiing this winter. (It's above Moran Faces and accessed from the top of the Après Vous lift via a short hike.) Start skiing back to the base at least an hour before last run and follow the sun home: Begin with the Sublette quad on the south side, ski to the Thunder lift, then to the Casper lift. Take a late lunch at Casper Restaurant, then slide over to the groomers of Après Vous-open the latest because they get great afternoon light.

Where to rent skis Teton Village Sports, inside the Crystal Springs Lodge next to the tram, has more than 400 pairs of high-end demo skis. Want to fly in and grab last chair? Make an online reservation. Your skis will be awaiting your arrival (from $40; 800-874-4224; skitvs.com).

Where to eat, drink and relax Teton Village dinner options are plenty: The laid-back-yet-swank ambience at The Peak, slopeside at the Four Seasons, is the spot for après cocktails and apps or a light dinner (307-732-5000). In town, locals rightly rave about the Old Yellowstone Garage, a casually elegant restaurant that focuses on the cuisine of the Italian Riviera. Want to join those locals? Head here on Sundays for a fun vibe and all-you-can-eat wood-fired pizza for $16 (307-734-6161; oyg.com). To hang with the ski-lebrities, snag a seat at the Village Café, a hole in the wall next to the tram where you can always count on loud music on the stereo, ski movies on the TV and cold microbrews (307-732-2233). For those looking for a rubdown after that first day on the hill, Snake River Lodge's Avanyu Spa boasts an extensive massage menu, from Swedish to Sports Flex ($70-$190; 800-445-4655; snakeriverlodge.com).

The package Get four nights in a two-bedroom, two-bath condo at Teton Village, a three-day lift ticket and the half-day services of a mountain guide, which lets guests snare first tracks in the new Crags area before the public ($449 per person, based on groups of four; Jan. 3-Feb. 9; 800-443-8613; jhrl.com).

Contact Jackson Hole Mountain Resort: 888-333-7766; jacksonhole.com. Snow phone: 307-733-2292; jacksonhole.com/ snowreport.asp. Town of Jackson: 307-733-3316; jacksonholechamber.com

Check out this video from Jackson Hole.

JANUARY 2005

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